Day 211 - 214
Sleeping location: Airbnb mansion, Bulago Island, Uganda (then back in Kampala)
Distance (km today/total): 0 / 13658
Estimated climb (m today/total): 0 / 103200
Disturbances: storms only
Distance (km today/total): 0 / 13658
Estimated climb (m today/total): 0 / 103200
Disturbances: storms only
Day in three words: Kampala week 2.5
Four days covering the last bit of Kampala, mainly spent on our little island paradise. It was blissfully peaceful and relaxed and a great way to get our energy up before setting off on the next stage of the journey.
Saturday - we were woken up in the pre-dawn light by strong winds and realised that a huge storm was raging a few km away across the lake. We could see the whole thing from afar, a huge storm cloud, torrential rain, lightning bolts with colossal thunder, but we stayed completely untouched and stayed outside watching it slowly catch the rising sun’s light. Later on the sky cleared and we enjoyed testing the noon shadows on the equator* - the shadow of me wearing my hat was just a circle around my feet, which looked really odd. We did very little, just ate, read, relaxed and enjoyed our luxurious accommodation. A lizard tried to hide in my discarded tshirt and when discovered ran away, but it couldn’t get traction on the floor and ended up skidding around in a very enjoyable way. Late afternoon we walked round the island, which was tiny and very beautiful and peaceful, with no motor vehicles at all. On the way back we watched sunset whilst dipping our feet in the lake and drinking a Guinness. Back at the house I cooked goat for the first time and made a surprisingly good curry with it (the secret seems to be to just boil it for absolutely ages). Then we made whisky sours and listened to loads of “music that we listened to whilst at college” whilst trying to name all 150 original Pokemon. We got about 90 before deciding that it was time for bed.
Sunday - both woke up pretty hungover and lazed around some more. We continued to think of Pokemon throughout the day and were then inspired to download an app that allows us to play the original Gameboy game on my phone. This will fill a lot of evenings in the tent or crappy hotel rooms. We planned the route for the next stage using input from Sam from Thursday, and he hopes to join us. It looks like an excellent route after we get a day or two away from Kampala. Rebecca insisted that I trim her hair, with predictably amateur results, although she maintains it was quite good actually. Late afternoon we went for another island walk, but this time there were loads (and I mean LOADS) of lake flies about which made it less fun. But the tropical forest was very pretty and had lots of interesting birds, plus a very cute baby pig. I stopped for a wee and Rebecca immediately thought of the Pokemon Sandslash. Back at the house we cooked and did university music this time, but unwittingly left doors and windows open and attracted loads (and I mean LOADS) of lake flies inside. They enjoyed swarming around the lights and white surfaces in great numbers, then when Rebecca ran a bath they all dived into it, presumably to lay eggs or something gross, so we had to abandon that idea and go to bed.
Monday - in the middle of the night we were awoken by another huge storm, but this one was right on top of us. It must have gone on for half an hour and during this time the flashing lightning was almost constant. Initially it was faint, like the thunder, but as the centre moved closer it got brighter and louder until it felt like the world was ending. The rain was predictably torrential. In the morning we lazily packed or ate all the remaining things that we’d brought to the island. The owner Tom’s dogs were around and were friendly and fun to play with. By this stage I had given up on the Pokemon but Rebecca was still going, albeit by probably inventing some of them. On the boat back to the mainland we were sad to leave our cosy little utopia. We got a lift from near the boat landing site to the apartment in Kampala with Paddy and Paul, who had come to the airport to pick up Liz&Paul’s friend Tess at a convenient time for us.
Tuesday - last day at the clinic was spent furiously trying to tie up the digital loose ends of the past two weeks. In the evening we went out for one last fancy meal at a Thai place. It was tasty but the service was bizarrely bad, seemingly because everyone had left one poor guy to do everything. The drinks came well, well after the food, without Rebecca’s because they didn’t have it, so she ordered another one which just never arrived. Maybe they just didn't like her.
It’s time to say bye to Kampala, home for two and half weeks. We have had a great time recharging our energy and refilling our stomachs. It’s also been wonderful to help at the clinic and see their wonderful and vital work in person. Ruth (office manager) gave us some presents, which was lovely of her but unfortunately we had to send them immediately home to conserve pannier space (they are extremely full of snacks at present).
*The island lies just south, which means we crossed it on the boat here, but it doesn’t count in the context of this trip because it wasn’t an official (ie on bike) crossing.
Four days covering the last bit of Kampala, mainly spent on our little island paradise. It was blissfully peaceful and relaxed and a great way to get our energy up before setting off on the next stage of the journey.
Saturday - we were woken up in the pre-dawn light by strong winds and realised that a huge storm was raging a few km away across the lake. We could see the whole thing from afar, a huge storm cloud, torrential rain, lightning bolts with colossal thunder, but we stayed completely untouched and stayed outside watching it slowly catch the rising sun’s light. Later on the sky cleared and we enjoyed testing the noon shadows on the equator* - the shadow of me wearing my hat was just a circle around my feet, which looked really odd. We did very little, just ate, read, relaxed and enjoyed our luxurious accommodation. A lizard tried to hide in my discarded tshirt and when discovered ran away, but it couldn’t get traction on the floor and ended up skidding around in a very enjoyable way. Late afternoon we walked round the island, which was tiny and very beautiful and peaceful, with no motor vehicles at all. On the way back we watched sunset whilst dipping our feet in the lake and drinking a Guinness. Back at the house I cooked goat for the first time and made a surprisingly good curry with it (the secret seems to be to just boil it for absolutely ages). Then we made whisky sours and listened to loads of “music that we listened to whilst at college” whilst trying to name all 150 original Pokemon. We got about 90 before deciding that it was time for bed.
Sunday - both woke up pretty hungover and lazed around some more. We continued to think of Pokemon throughout the day and were then inspired to download an app that allows us to play the original Gameboy game on my phone. This will fill a lot of evenings in the tent or crappy hotel rooms. We planned the route for the next stage using input from Sam from Thursday, and he hopes to join us. It looks like an excellent route after we get a day or two away from Kampala. Rebecca insisted that I trim her hair, with predictably amateur results, although she maintains it was quite good actually. Late afternoon we went for another island walk, but this time there were loads (and I mean LOADS) of lake flies about which made it less fun. But the tropical forest was very pretty and had lots of interesting birds, plus a very cute baby pig. I stopped for a wee and Rebecca immediately thought of the Pokemon Sandslash. Back at the house we cooked and did university music this time, but unwittingly left doors and windows open and attracted loads (and I mean LOADS) of lake flies inside. They enjoyed swarming around the lights and white surfaces in great numbers, then when Rebecca ran a bath they all dived into it, presumably to lay eggs or something gross, so we had to abandon that idea and go to bed.
Monday - in the middle of the night we were awoken by another huge storm, but this one was right on top of us. It must have gone on for half an hour and during this time the flashing lightning was almost constant. Initially it was faint, like the thunder, but as the centre moved closer it got brighter and louder until it felt like the world was ending. The rain was predictably torrential. In the morning we lazily packed or ate all the remaining things that we’d brought to the island. The owner Tom’s dogs were around and were friendly and fun to play with. By this stage I had given up on the Pokemon but Rebecca was still going, albeit by probably inventing some of them. On the boat back to the mainland we were sad to leave our cosy little utopia. We got a lift from near the boat landing site to the apartment in Kampala with Paddy and Paul, who had come to the airport to pick up Liz&Paul’s friend Tess at a convenient time for us.
Tuesday - last day at the clinic was spent furiously trying to tie up the digital loose ends of the past two weeks. In the evening we went out for one last fancy meal at a Thai place. It was tasty but the service was bizarrely bad, seemingly because everyone had left one poor guy to do everything. The drinks came well, well after the food, without Rebecca’s because they didn’t have it, so she ordered another one which just never arrived. Maybe they just didn't like her.
It’s time to say bye to Kampala, home for two and half weeks. We have had a great time recharging our energy and refilling our stomachs. It’s also been wonderful to help at the clinic and see their wonderful and vital work in person. Ruth (office manager) gave us some presents, which was lovely of her but unfortunately we had to send them immediately home to conserve pannier space (they are extremely full of snacks at present).
*The island lies just south, which means we crossed it on the boat here, but it doesn’t count in the context of this trip because it wasn’t an official (ie on bike) crossing.
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