Part 1 - postscript
This is a brief summary of what happened after that final day, both for my own records and to resolve the minor cliffhanger (stephanger?) that things were left on. I can only apologise for its extreme tardiness, lockdown really seems to sap motivation. The next day we flew to Zanzibar via a long wait at Dar es Salaam airport. At Bukoba airport Lake Victoria provided one last storm to see us off, which absolutely drenched us in the 30 seconds it took to unload the taxi. Bukoba airport was a tiny little thing with about two flights a day, but we did pick up a little box of the local delicacy of Nsenene - fried and salted bush crickets. They were honestly delicious, like a sort of softer pork scratching, and we wanted more but the airport sold out, presumably because they were so delicious. When we arrived at Zanzibar we were accosted by local officials and forced to enter quarantine in a nearby hotel, at our own expense This was infuriating and wrong as we arrived in Tanzania before