Day 52
Sleeping location: Orel Buru, Bucuk , Turkey
Distance (km today/total): 87 / 5137
Estimated climb (m today/total): 1100 / 44000
Height of Sagalassos AND years since it was abandoned: ca 1400
Day in three words: Heights and history
The (surprisingly good) hotel breakfast provided the first pocket eggs in a few days, and further bounty was picked up at a bike shop in town where dad bought two new inners. This takes his total stash to three spares; I bet he doesn’t get another puncture now. From Isparta we zipped down the dual carriageway as it was the only route down a steep sided valley. Thankfully it was very quiet, and very quick, and we covered the first 17km in half an hour. From here we climbed up into another valley over a beautiful pass, all forest and rugged mountain. After climbing gradually up the valley we reached Aglasun, a small town at the foot of the mountains, to pick up some bits for lunch. There was a huge plane tree in the town square that was 1000 years old, which is incredible. When Turkey was captured by the Turks in 1453 the inhabitants of the town would already have thought (in Greek/Latin) “wow that tree is so old”.
From Aglasun we had made the decision to do and out and back trip to Sagalassos, a ruined city 7km and 400m up from the main road. The climb to it wound its way up the mountainside, with constantly beautiful views back down the valley to further mountains in the distance. From the top you could see mountain after mountain in the direction we’re going, which we know from previous visits continue all the way to the sea. Before we went in to the site the cheese and cherry jam sandwich was resurrected for a picnic. The grapes from two days ago are also slowly being nibbled away - there is less than a kilo now. Some juvenile cats came up and starting mewling for food, and then one of them casually jumped up on the table and started walking around as we were eating. You can’t even be angry at such chutzpah, so we let him do his thing (and took a few photographs in return).
Sagalassos itself was incredible. It was a pretty big city at its peak, when it was part of the Roman Empire, and it had some magnificent architecture, a lot of which had survived quite well. The amphitheatre and the main square with its huge fountain were both amazing. Because it sits on a hillside you also have a mountain towering behind and fantastic views back down the valley the other way. It must have been a nice place to live, as long as someone else was bringing your fruit and veg up from the valley.
The winding road back down was really fun as it was a good new surface. Then it was back onto the main road, which was mostly a slight downhill and was quick. After one medium climb (130m) we got a ridiculously fun descent along the side of another valley, smooth as silk with banked corners and a lovely gradient. The day in general was quick and we got into Bucak by 5.30 despite having taken 2hrs to see Sagalassos. Both Bucak and the hotel are pleasant enough in an understated and slightly shabby way. As we were checking in a man came in off the street to say hello and shake our hands, disappeared, then came back and tried to sell us some socks. After he left the guy on reception said “he has some problems with his brain” but I’m not sure, maybe he just really likes socks.
Distance (km today/total): 87 / 5137
Estimated climb (m today/total): 1100 / 44000
Height of Sagalassos AND years since it was abandoned: ca 1400
Day in three words: Heights and history
The (surprisingly good) hotel breakfast provided the first pocket eggs in a few days, and further bounty was picked up at a bike shop in town where dad bought two new inners. This takes his total stash to three spares; I bet he doesn’t get another puncture now. From Isparta we zipped down the dual carriageway as it was the only route down a steep sided valley. Thankfully it was very quiet, and very quick, and we covered the first 17km in half an hour. From here we climbed up into another valley over a beautiful pass, all forest and rugged mountain. After climbing gradually up the valley we reached Aglasun, a small town at the foot of the mountains, to pick up some bits for lunch. There was a huge plane tree in the town square that was 1000 years old, which is incredible. When Turkey was captured by the Turks in 1453 the inhabitants of the town would already have thought (in Greek/Latin) “wow that tree is so old”.
From Aglasun we had made the decision to do and out and back trip to Sagalassos, a ruined city 7km and 400m up from the main road. The climb to it wound its way up the mountainside, with constantly beautiful views back down the valley to further mountains in the distance. From the top you could see mountain after mountain in the direction we’re going, which we know from previous visits continue all the way to the sea. Before we went in to the site the cheese and cherry jam sandwich was resurrected for a picnic. The grapes from two days ago are also slowly being nibbled away - there is less than a kilo now. Some juvenile cats came up and starting mewling for food, and then one of them casually jumped up on the table and started walking around as we were eating. You can’t even be angry at such chutzpah, so we let him do his thing (and took a few photographs in return).
Sagalassos itself was incredible. It was a pretty big city at its peak, when it was part of the Roman Empire, and it had some magnificent architecture, a lot of which had survived quite well. The amphitheatre and the main square with its huge fountain were both amazing. Because it sits on a hillside you also have a mountain towering behind and fantastic views back down the valley the other way. It must have been a nice place to live, as long as someone else was bringing your fruit and veg up from the valley.
The winding road back down was really fun as it was a good new surface. Then it was back onto the main road, which was mostly a slight downhill and was quick. After one medium climb (130m) we got a ridiculously fun descent along the side of another valley, smooth as silk with banked corners and a lovely gradient. The day in general was quick and we got into Bucak by 5.30 despite having taken 2hrs to see Sagalassos. Both Bucak and the hotel are pleasant enough in an understated and slightly shabby way. As we were checking in a man came in off the street to say hello and shake our hands, disappeared, then came back and tried to sell us some socks. After he left the guy on reception said “he has some problems with his brain” but I’m not sure, maybe he just really likes socks.
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