Day 34
Sleeping location: A semi-beach on the finger of the reservoir about 10km E of Debar, Macedonia
Distance (km today/total): 87 / 3442
Estimated climb (m today/total): 1600 / 26300
Bike races with Albanian children (all won eventually): 5
Day in three words: I love tarmac
I started early in an attempt to knock off the rest of the climb/push as quickly as possible, and managed to cover the 200m of climb in 2km by 7am. On the home straight! Nope, I hadn’t reckoned with my own ineptitude and the further surprises of the mountain “roads” around here. Firstly, I somehow missed a turning and dropped down off the ridgeline that I was supposed to be following. I’d lost about 250m of height by the time I realised, and the way back to the route was up the worst section yet. Mostly big stones, pitching up to 30%. I had to ferry the panniers again, but for a couple of km this time, and it took ages. Once back on the “main road” I thought again that I was on the home straight, but this was still utter crap. Massive rocks, massive puddles, parts of it just turned into a stream for long sections. Even though it was downhill it was still mostly unrideable and there was a lot of pushing and swearing.
It did help that the scenery was absolutely beautiful, probably the best of the trip so far. It also helped that the locals I met were all very supportive (I think), offering directions through hand gestures and (I think) words of encouragement with a smile. Or maybe they were all just saying “you are an idiot”. Maybe I am. It’s definitely my own fault that I had to do this route, and not just the accidental detour. I used an app to plan my route but stupidly didn't check it out in advance. Lesson learned, possibly.
Eventually I hit rideable dirt road again, and had a long and slightly sketchy descent back to civilisation. Honestly I was just happy not to be pushing any more. Finally I hit tarmac after 40km of the rough stuff, with 1900m of climb in that. It took 22hrs in total.
Tarmac initially started me off with a pretty long climb, but after some quick downhills and nice long flattish bits we were firmly friends again. This stretch was really beautiful and probably the best example of “true” Albania, ie also totally crazy and fun. Along the way all the children waved and said hi and/or tried to get a high five, plus one tried desperately to sell me some silver gift ribbon he had somehow acquired. Every kid on a bike tried to race me and looked really pleased if they could catch up, but of course their stamina wasn’t up to mine and they were soon defeated. At one point I stopped to give some water to a pedestrian who had asked for it. He had a drink then started pointing to my hat and then his head, and saying “capello” over and over again. Since he did not appear to be former England manager Fabio Capello I deduced that he wanted my hat, but there was no way he was having such a sentimental* (and useful) thing so I said “sorry I have to go now” (Why?? I could have said literally anything) and went.
Soon I was at the Macedonian border, where in addition to border guards they also had an enormous dog policing entry into the country. It took me four attempts to get past it. In what may be my last instance of Albanian kindness, the car behind me then insisted on giving me an escort past the next dog, which was of course totally chilled and just sat there the whole time. Albanians are absolutely great and it’s a shame it’s such a thin country west to east - I’d have loved to spend more time there. It also didn’t rain the whole time, so the curse of the new country is finally broken.
I was only in Macedonia for about 15km before I found a nice camp spot on a semi-beach by a reservoir. It was quiet and hidden and I slept with the rain cover off the tent so I could feel some breeze and look at the stars.
*It’s from Canopy brewery in Herne Hill, near where I used to live. I also have one from Brixton Cycles #southlondonreprezent
Distance (km today/total): 87 / 3442
Estimated climb (m today/total): 1600 / 26300
Bike races with Albanian children (all won eventually): 5
Day in three words: I love tarmac
I started early in an attempt to knock off the rest of the climb/push as quickly as possible, and managed to cover the 200m of climb in 2km by 7am. On the home straight! Nope, I hadn’t reckoned with my own ineptitude and the further surprises of the mountain “roads” around here. Firstly, I somehow missed a turning and dropped down off the ridgeline that I was supposed to be following. I’d lost about 250m of height by the time I realised, and the way back to the route was up the worst section yet. Mostly big stones, pitching up to 30%. I had to ferry the panniers again, but for a couple of km this time, and it took ages. Once back on the “main road” I thought again that I was on the home straight, but this was still utter crap. Massive rocks, massive puddles, parts of it just turned into a stream for long sections. Even though it was downhill it was still mostly unrideable and there was a lot of pushing and swearing.
It did help that the scenery was absolutely beautiful, probably the best of the trip so far. It also helped that the locals I met were all very supportive (I think), offering directions through hand gestures and (I think) words of encouragement with a smile. Or maybe they were all just saying “you are an idiot”. Maybe I am. It’s definitely my own fault that I had to do this route, and not just the accidental detour. I used an app to plan my route but stupidly didn't check it out in advance. Lesson learned, possibly.
Eventually I hit rideable dirt road again, and had a long and slightly sketchy descent back to civilisation. Honestly I was just happy not to be pushing any more. Finally I hit tarmac after 40km of the rough stuff, with 1900m of climb in that. It took 22hrs in total.
Tarmac initially started me off with a pretty long climb, but after some quick downhills and nice long flattish bits we were firmly friends again. This stretch was really beautiful and probably the best example of “true” Albania, ie also totally crazy and fun. Along the way all the children waved and said hi and/or tried to get a high five, plus one tried desperately to sell me some silver gift ribbon he had somehow acquired. Every kid on a bike tried to race me and looked really pleased if they could catch up, but of course their stamina wasn’t up to mine and they were soon defeated. At one point I stopped to give some water to a pedestrian who had asked for it. He had a drink then started pointing to my hat and then his head, and saying “capello” over and over again. Since he did not appear to be former England manager Fabio Capello I deduced that he wanted my hat, but there was no way he was having such a sentimental* (and useful) thing so I said “sorry I have to go now” (Why?? I could have said literally anything) and went.
Soon I was at the Macedonian border, where in addition to border guards they also had an enormous dog policing entry into the country. It took me four attempts to get past it. In what may be my last instance of Albanian kindness, the car behind me then insisted on giving me an escort past the next dog, which was of course totally chilled and just sat there the whole time. Albanians are absolutely great and it’s a shame it’s such a thin country west to east - I’d have loved to spend more time there. It also didn’t rain the whole time, so the curse of the new country is finally broken.
I was only in Macedonia for about 15km before I found a nice camp spot on a semi-beach by a reservoir. It was quiet and hidden and I slept with the rain cover off the tent so I could feel some breeze and look at the stars.
*It’s from Canopy brewery in Herne Hill, near where I used to live. I also have one from Brixton Cycles #southlondonreprezent
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